Master the World: Wine Atlas Collective
An impromptu home wine tasting
Helen and I are longtime members of Ridge Vineyards wine club. Ridge recently notified us that they are participating in the Wine Atlas Collective:
The Wine Atlas Collective is an association of independently operated, family-led wineries from America’s top wine regions, united by a shared commitment to sustainable farming, innovative winemaking, and authentic hospitality.
Participating wineries include:
Blenheim Vineyards – Charlottesville, VA
Brooks – Willamette Valley, OR
Frog’s Leap – Napa Valley, CA
L’Ecole № 41 – Walla Walla and Woodinville, WA
Red Tail Ridge – Finger Lakes, NY
Ridge Vineyards – Santa Cruz Mtn, Dry Creek Valley, Paso Robles, CA
Tablas Creek Vineyard – Paso Robles, CA
William Chris Vineyards – Texas Hill Country, TX
We know Frog’s Leap, L’Ecole, Ridge, and Tablas Creek, and are fans of all four, so we decided to give it a try.
Our first shipment of 8 wines arrived last week. So, last night we ordered an assortment of sushi and meat items from one of our favorite local Japanese restaurants and had an impromptu tasting of five of the wines. Three whites to go with the susho and two reds to go with the beef.
Brooks Estate Vineyard Riesling (Eola-Amity Hills; Willamette Valley) 2024
Although this was our least favorite of the five wines we tasted, it was neverthless very good. It just wasn’t quite as good as those that followed.
A very pale yellow color. Brisk acidity on the palate. Very tart. Atypical for a Riesling, although I confess to being much more familiar with Alsatian than US Rieslings (Trimbach is our go to for Riesling). One dimensional. Suggested Meyer lemon with herbal notes. There’s some residual sugar, but it’s not a distinctively sweet wine. Clean and well-balanced. Would work well with something like Sole Meuniere.
L’Ecole № 41 Semillon Stillwater Creek Vineyard (Royal Slope; Washington) 2024
This was our favorite of the three whites. Pale gold color. On the nose, we were reminded of honeydew melon, orange blossoms, and pear. On the palate, the flavor associations tracked the aroma. Complex, layered flavors. Good, bright acidity, but balanced. It struck us as a very food friendly wine that would go well with a wide range of dishes. It played especially well with the Toro sushi. But I would happily drink it with anything from Chilean sea bass to roast chicken.
Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford; Napa Valley) 2024
This is an old favorite, which we’ve enjoyed across many vintages. It’s closer to the fruity end of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum than the grassy end. On both the nose and palate, it suggested white peach, citrus blossoms, a flinty minerality, and a touch of grass and herbs. Very well balanced, with some heft to the body. I think it would prove a very versatile wine with food, especially grilled halibut or snapper (probably not salmon or tuna). It’d be fine as an apertif, although I think I would prefer the Semillon.
Tablas Creek Vineyard En Gobelet (Adelaida District; Paso Robles) 2023
Helen and I are big fans of Tablas Creek. They produce a wide range of Rhone-style blends, including both reds and whites. We generally prefer their reds, but the whites are also quite good.
The En Goblet is one of their limited production wines. In 2023, it was a blend of 49% Grenache, 31% Mourvèdre, 14% Syrah, 3% Counoise, and 3% Tannat. (I’m always somewhat amazed that winemakers can decide whether a blend needs 3% of a varietal or 4%.) It slots in between the top of the line Esprit de Tablas and the mass market Patelin de Tablas.
This was a lovely wine. It presented blueberry, plum, chocolate, and herbal aromas and flavors. Well balanced. Bright with plenty of food friendly acidity. Long finish, suggesting pepper and minerals.
It’d do well with a wide variety of meats, but I think it would sing with grilled, garlicky leg of lamb.
Ridge Vineyards Ponzo Gamay Noir (Sonoma County) 2025
Ridge was one of the first up-market wines we collected. We’ve been drinking it for four decades now and been members of their wine club for most of that time. So, it’s probably not surprising that in a non-blind taste test this was one of our favorites. Still, I think aa completely impartial and objective taster would have said the same thing. In any case, speaking personally, I rated it a close second to the Tablas Creek, while Helen rated it number one.
Helen and I like Beaujolais wines, although they’re not one of our favorites. As for California Gamay, we’ve steered clear. Of course, the problem was that mass market wineries—like the one whose name rhymes with fallow—used to make cheap “Napa Gamay,” which used a different grape that was overcropped and indifferently made.
Real Gamay grapes are rare in California, but seem to making something of a comeback. Ridge explains:
Ponzo Vineyard is located on the northernmost edge of the Russian River Valley appellation. It is situated on the slopes above the Russian River, south of the town of Healdsburg. …
This site is comprised primarily of zinfandel planted on fine sandy loam and well-drained gravelly soils.
Ponzo recently planted Gamay vines in sufficient number to double Sonoma county’s production. The 2025 is Ridge’s inaugural vintage of this variety.
When we first opened it, there was a very odd note of banana on the nose, but it blew off pretty quickly. It made me wonder whether Ridge used carbonic maceration for part of the wine, but it lacked the candy and bubblegum flavors you associate with Beaujolais that’s undergone the process.
It smelled and tasted of a melange of rich, ripe red fruits—cherries, raspberries, and strawberries. Medium bodied with low, soft tannins. Not super fruity like Beaujolais Nouveau, but more structured and earthy like a good Cru Beaujolais.
Not a wine to cellar, but I ordered a few bottles to drink this summer with grilled steaks and chicken. I think it also will make an interesting match for teriyaki salmon cooked on a cedar plank. In fact, I can’t wait to try that one.
Conclusion
This leaves us with three to try wines from the first shipment. Maybe next week?
I leave you with a recommendation to consider joining Ridge’s wine club and the Wine Collective.