Glazing the Salmon
1 tablespoon red miso paste
1 tablespoon reduced sodium white miso paste (I like Yamasan Kyoto Uji; AMAZON LINK)
1 ½ teaspoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 ½ teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, crushed
½ teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2 6-ounce salmon filets
Combine all ingredients except the maple syrup and the salmon in a small bowl. Transfer 1 ½ tablespoons of the mixture into a separate small bowl and reserve. Add the maple syrup to the larger portion and combine.
Either lube a quarter-sized sheet pan with a liberal spritz of Pam or place a silicon baking mat on the pan. Place the salmon filets on the pan and liberally brush about ⅓ of the glaze on each, reserving the remainder. Stick the sheet pan in the refrigerator.
The Mashed Cauliflower
½ medium head of cauliflower, cut into small florets
pinch salt
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan Reggiano
1 ½ tablespoons butter
Using a medium pot and a steamer basket, steak the cauliflower for 10-12 minutes until fork tender. Drain cauliflower in a colander or strainer. Pat repeatedly with paper towels or a clean tea towel. Allow to air dry 5 minutes. Transfer to the work bowl of a food processor and puree. I don’t like a completely smooth texture, so I try to stop while there are still some discernible chunks.
Melt butter and add to bowl with reserved miso glaze. Mix into the cauliflower. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper as needed.
I made it ahead to this point several hours before dinner, stashed it in the refrigerator, and reheated it to warm but not piping hot in the microwave for service, stirring once.
The Cucumber Salad
While the glazed salmon is resting in the refrigerator, turn to the cucumber salad.
½ pound English cucumbers sliced very thin (Persian cucumbers would also work)
⅓ cup drained, rimsed, and chopped pickled onions
2 tablespoons drained and chopped pickled ginger
½ tablespoon toasted sesame oil
½ tablespoon rice vinegar
½ tablespoon reduced sodium soy sauce
½ teaspoon honey
2 green onions sliced
½ tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Combine all ingredients in a medium and mix well. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes (but not more than an hour).
Cook the Salmon
About 15 minutes ahead of time, remove salmon from refrigerator and preheat the oven to 400°. Put one of the racks in the tip third position. Brush the salmon with the reserved glaze.
When the oven is preheated, put the sheet pan with the salmon in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Turn on the broiler and cook an extra two minutes.
Plate the mashed cauliflower, putting the salmon filet on top, with the cucumber salad to the side. Sprinkle the salmon with toasted sesame seeds.
Tips
For small mixing bowls, I have a couple sets of Pyrex 6 ounce custard cups (AMAZON LINK). I also use them for preparing my mise en place.
I am a big fan of Silpat baking mats. They last forever. Nothing stocks. You can clean them in the dishwasher (AMAZON LINK).
To get very thin and very consistent slices of cucumber use a mandoline. Mine is the Benriner (AMAZON LINK). Instead of using the handguard, I wear cut resistant gloves (AMAZON LINK).
The Wine
Sea Smoke Botella (Sta. Rita Hills) 2023. This is a lighter, more fruit-forward Pinot that Sea Smoke makes for you to drink while waiting for your bottles of Ten and Southing to gain some cellar age. I believe the bulk (all?) of the fruit comes from other growers rather than their estate vines. It gets less barrel aging and less new oak.
It suggests red fruit—raspberries and cherries—with a light dash of herbs. A touch of vanilla from the oak aging. Soft silky structure with refined tannins.
It likely will improve with short-term cellar aging, but double decanting about 30 minutes before service opened it up nicely and it’s very enjoyable now.
This is a great example of how you can drink red wine with fish. Indeed, the Botella made a great match for the salmon. It had enough acidity to complement the rich, oily texture of the salmon. The deep, savory umami flavor provided by the miso and soy was complemented by the Pinot’s fruit and herbs. The soft and modest tannins did not clash with the fish, as a heavier wine would have done.